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Hardanger Embroidery

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Hardanger embroidery is a simple form of whitework named after the area of Norway where it is found. This form of needlework involves counted thread stitches, drawn thread work and some pulled thread embroidery.

Traditionally used for linens, caps, and especially aprons, the work was carried out on white fabrics as fine as 50 threads to the inch using white thread, but coarser fabrics and coloured threads are often used nowadays.


Threads to use in Hardanger embroidery

Two sizes of thread are normally used in a Hardanger design. The thicker one being used for the kloster blocks and surface stitching, while the finer thread is reserved for the needleweaving and filling stitches.



The photograph, above, shows three different thicknesses of Pearl or Perle cotton. The thickest is the ecru (cream) skein and the blue ball which are both a number 5. Next is the lilac number 8, followed by the ecru ball of number 12, the thinnest.

Fabric Count - Threads to use

22 count Oslo - Pearl 5 и 8

28 count evenweave - Pearl 8 и 12

32 count Linen - Pearl 12 throughout

Needles and equipment for Hardanger

Tapestry needles are used for stitching this form of embroidery. You will need two sizes, one for each thread. Try a size 20 for the Pearl no 5, size 22 for the Pearl no 8, and a size 24 for Pearl 12.
Very sharp, pointed embroidery scissors are necessary for cutting the threads cleanly, those with angled blades make life a little easier.
I find that the kloster blocks and surface stitching is easier to do if the fabric is secured in an embroidery hoop. I remove it before cutting the fabric threads, however. Like me, you may also find the needleweaving easier to do "in hand" rather than with the fabric in a hoop.
A small pointed pair of tweezers may also come in handy for easing out the fabric threads after they are cut.
Oh and a little container, in which to pop the cut threads, can help to keep your working area neat and tidy.

How to follow Hardanger patterns

As a hardanger design can be rather large, some designers use a form of shorthand on their patterns, where each grid line represents two fabric threads, thereby reducing the graph size. If after stitching my hardanger patterns you move on to another designer’s patterns please keep this in mind.

I prefer to produce charts where each fabric thread is shown as one line on the graph, so that if the graph shows 4 threads then you count 4 threads of the fabric.
This is the way you will have learned to stitch this needlework technique if you have followed my course. It seems more straightforward and easy to follow in my opinion, but can lead to patterns being printed over a number of pages.
What if you cut the wrong thread?
When I have taught hardanger embroidery at workshops this is everyone’s first question.
It can be worrying taking the scissors to your work after you have put time and effort into the stitching, but by following the special red lines on my charts you will see clearly which threads to cut and which to leave well alone!
If you do happen to make a mistake all is not lost there are ways of rectifying the problem.